Fugazi

The shared plates trend in Paris reached a fever pitch pre-pandemic, though dining has since returned to a more traditional order of entreé, plat, and dessert. But Fugazi is sticking with the idea that everything’s better small and split across the table.

The menu at this friendly, bric-a-brac-filled spot changes every couple of weeks—in September, that meant the last of the tomatoes dressed with a fennel crumble and the first of the king trumpet mushrooms, sautéed and topped with crispy onion and bacon. Choose a few dishes from the chalkboard, and expect them to come out whenever they’re ready. The rock-meets-heavy-metal soundtrack is a bit questionable, but this is the kind of place that’s lively enough to drown it out.