Trattoria Piccolo Napoli

This family-owned trattoria has been open since 1951 and serves fresh seafood and traditional Sicilian cuisine. The founder handed it down to his two sons: Pippo, the current owner who continues the tradition today, and Gianni, who took off to open Corona Trattoria on his own. (Don’t bring it up—family feuds live on forever here in Sicily.)

It’s located just a short walk from the Politeama Garibaldi Theater, so head here before or after a show for some sweet-and-sour eggplant caponata, fried sardines and tiny calamaretti, panelle chickpea fritters, and the daily catch, which might include shrimp, squid, orata, red mullet, or swordfish.