New Asha

There aren’t a lot of restaurants where you just let someone else decide what you should eat, because menus exist, and so does gluten intolerance. But at New Asha in Staten Island, the owner Viji Devadas is happy to make your decisions for you, as long as you’re happy to let her. She’ll direct you to one of the two tables in the counter-service Sri Lankan spot, pass you a mango lassi from the fridge, and then get to work. First with a plate heavy with a little bit of everything—tender beef curry, fragrant coconut rice, gently spiced dal, and a few condiments—and then with boxes, because you will have leftovers. One lunch here, and you’ll want to come back for dinner, to let Viji cover your table with string hoppers, sambol, and curry.