MIAReview

photo credit: Virginia Otazo

The dining room at CalaMillor.
7.0

CalaMillor

SpanishBakery/Cafe

Bird RoadSouth Miami

$$$$Perfect For:Brunch
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As soon as this well-known bakery in Spain expanded to Miami and moved into the old Allen’s Drug space (R.I.P. to that iconic sign), we were ready to love their pastries. And, after eating many of their ensaimadas, we do. Their famous Mallorcan treats are fluffy, filled with rich cream, and topped with powdered sugar. But the Miami location’s expanded menu, which includes smashburgers, paellas, and a Cuban sandwich, generally overreaches and under-delivers. The burger is greasier than a truck axle, and the Cuban sandwich on country bread is such a far cry from a Cubano, it could be from New Zealand. Stick to the items that are baked or prepared ahead of time, like the refreshing gazpacho with jamon iberico, tortilla Española, a gooey Basque cheesecake, and those incredible ensaimadas.

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