It’s difficult to say what’s prettier: the presentation of the dishes or the panoramic views at this modern spot on Fourvière Hill. It’s the unshowy kind of fine dining where you’re equally welcome in jeans and sneakers as a pants suit.

Set lunch and dinner menus have courses like pike quenelles in green crab and ginger bisque, candied duckling leg, or risotto with Pastis-flambéed prawns. Best of all is their liberal approach to sauce—after your cod ballotine gets doused, it’s left on the table so those who wish to fish for their own lunch in molten butter are welcome to do so. The café gourmand is a showstopper.

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