Shins Pizza

Slices have to be special to justify an afternoon commute. The beauty of Shins—a new walk-up pizza shop in Cypress Park from the Barra Santos and Found Oyster people—is that it doesn’t even feel like it’s trying to be special. It just is. Each slice folds in half like there’s a perforated edge down the middle, while the crust has all the sturdy chew of a classic NY-style pie. Toppings read as fun and inventive without going full manic pixie dream girl, like a mortadella-covered white pie with pistachios or one with sweet Chinese sausage, pepperoni, smoky speck, and sambal. Finish your sub-$20 lunch with a cup of tart, calamansi Italian ice. Just prepare to stand on the curb while you do so: There’s no seating.