Santo

Santo in Silver Lake looks the part of a promising sushi bar. The tiny space in Sunset Junction has a sleek wooden bar, Japanese art hanging on the walls, and a separate counter facing out to the street. The problem is that Santo’s sushi is just OK. Save for a few solid, simple nigiri like the akami and chu’toro, everything comes with add-ons that distract from the fish. Think hamachi negi with truffle cream reduction, otoro sashimi seared with charcoal, and hamachi with Oaxacan chocolate blowtorched on top. If we were at a clubstaurant on Hollywood Blvd., these over-the-top dishes might make more sense. But in a serene little bar, it’s confusing—and also quite expensive.