LAReview

photo credit: Wonho Frank Lee

Lustig image

Lustig

Austrian

Culver City

$$$$Perfect For:Date NightDrinking Good Cocktails

Lustig in Culver City has its novelties. It’s a modern Austrian restaurant, which, by default, makes it interesting. There aren’t many places in LA to get wienerschnitzel and spätzel on a weeknight. It’s also the only restaurant in Los Angeles that looks like you’ve Blue Skidoo’d into a Piet Mondrian painting, with sharp lines, minimalist blonde wood, and pops of primary color in every corner. Similar to über abstract art, however, much of the food had us slightly puzzled. The dry-ish raclette pizza comes with pickle juice for dipping, hamachi crudo with mustard, green apple, and avocado tastes muddled, and the $21 kaiserschmarrn dessert is essentially just pancakes. But while the menu can be a little snoozy, the cocktails are strong enough to wake you up, including the spiced Joyride with rye and house bitters. We’ll be back soon to check in and have another round or two those, plus that crispy, golden wienerschnitzel.

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