LAReview

Hilo Sushi

Introverts should avoid Beverly Hills’ newest sushi restaurant. A meal here functions like an open mic night: jokes of varying funniness are flung out and audience participation is mandatory. But if you can stand the hot seat, this one-man show housed in a tiki-themed sushi restaurant is second-to-none in entertainment value. At the center of it all is the magnetic Hilo, a Maui-born chef who almost certainly was an entertainer in a past life. While other omakase spots ask for your preferences mostly out of obligation, the chef here is genuinely curious to know your likes and dislikes. Did you mention a love of silver-skinned mackerel? You got it. Not a fan of uni or ikura? You’ll never have to see it. Meal prices are calculated by the fish, which means you could stop in for a quick snack or four hour-long epic saga, depending on the night. The standard omakase hovers around the $200 mark and features a quirky array of non-traditional nigiri and Hawaiian fish like opakapaka (pink snapper) and kahala (greater amberjack).

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