There are two reasons to come to Gorilla Pies in North Hollywood: wings and pizza. The former are excellent across the board, with crisp, potato-chip-like skin that unlocks a vault of juicy meat. The latter is also great, especially if you like busy pizza with lots of personality. There’s a good chance the owner will greet you from behind the counter while spreading pickled fennel, smoked sauerkraut-kimchi, char siu, or tater tots over fresh dough. These fun toppings are par for the course at Gorilla, but we usually prefer the simpler options with two toppings or less. This counter-service shop is in a strip mall right next door to a kosher supermarket—parking is abundant and seating is limited, especially on weekends. Get a seat if you can though: With leather booths and by-the-slice display case, Gorilla Pies has the charm of those pizza parlors in sitcoms where teens hang out after school.