Atla

Atla is a New York transplant that, like a lot of New York transplants, feels right at home on Abbot Kinney. This minimalist-chic spot shares the same owners as glitzy, upscale Mexican restaurants like Mexico City's Pujol and DTLA's Damian, but it is (by far) the group's most laid-back concept. Maybe that's why it's such a natural fit in Venice.

If you're west of Lincoln Boulevard, consider Alta a can't-miss catch-all for lunch, cocktails, or a high-stakes date night. But beyond that, it's also something else: the undisputed best Mexican restaurant on the Westside.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

While Atla is less formal than its fine-dining siblings, it would be a stretch to call this place casual. Or at least, it's casual in the same way that Abbot Kinney is "casual" (i.e., show up in Lululemon shorts and the hosts won't bat an eye). During the day, the breezy, blue-toned dining room is filled with comfortably employed Westsiders and international tourists looking for a place to rest their shopping bags and eat tacos. Once the sun goes down, the lights dim and the indie rock playlist gets turned up just a smidge, and in short order, first date after first date files through the door. Friday night at Atla is essentially Venice's hottest singles mixer that also happens to serve Mexican food. 

That's not to say the food is an afterthought. Quite the opposite: even with something as simple as a quesadilla, the quality of ingredients and attention to detail at Alta is extremely noticeable. Pillowy blue tortillas are made in-house, and the milky, stretchy quesillo cheese is nicely seasoned with epazote. The menu is made up of a half-dozen or so tacos, a couple of salads, various antojitos, and several larger plates like a lobster burrito and an asada-style ribeye. Misses are few and far between. Potato flautas shatter like glass and a neatly folded shrimp taco packs a crunchy cheese crust and a layer of buttery beans. The shareable barbacoa floats in a clear, salty broth that's so light and nourishing it drinks like beefy tea. There's also a sizable list of cocktails and agua frescas, which are just as spot-on as the food.

At a high-end spot like Damian, where most dishes are presented as avant-garde takes on Mexican cuisine, the various levels of deliciousness going on might not surprise you. Here, you'll find that same thoughtfulness and precision—just applied to simpler, homier classics. At this point, though, we should probably mention that a meal here (like everything else on Abbot Kinney) can get expensive fast. That quesadilla? Yeah, it costs $9. But whether you can tolerate spending $17 on a tamal or not, it's pretty clear what your money is going toward.

In a part of town where Mexican food has often been limited to margaritas on the boardwalk and wet burritos, Atla is a long overdue addition. So yes, now we have an easy answer whenever someone asks about the best Mexican food on the Westside. But we'd also send someone here no matter where they're coming from.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Cocktails

Like the food, Atla's cocktails are just spruced-up versions of drinks you're already familiar with (with a few interesting twists). Our favorite is the refreshing Eastside that reads like a standard tequila-cucumber cocktail until you taste a peppery bite of hoja santa and sweet maple syrup.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Shrimp Taco

An excellent taco on all fronts. The handmade corn tortilla is delicate but somehow holds together in the face of smoky beans, chile-dusted shrimp, and a crispy layer of cheese. Be generous with the avocado salsa cruda that burns your lips in the best way.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Quesadilla

Simple? Yes, but also impossible not to like. The tortilla is super soft, the quesillo is stretchy and gooey, and the fresh epazote herb adds depth.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Pork Al Pastor Gringa

If we're going to label the quesadilla as simple, this gringa is its polar opposite. It's an overflowing bathtub of flavor and we love it. The seared pork is drenched in sweet-spicy adobada sauce, and the fruity pineapple butter brightens everything up.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Fish A La Talla

We saw the words "pineapple vinegar salsa" and "garlic oil," on the menu and were excited about the punchy flavors coming our way. But we were misled. Expect an expertly cooked branzino filet with a mild—albeit fine—chile adobo seasoning.

Fish Milanesa

A role model to every fish who wants to be a milanesa when they grow up. The panko crust is golden brown and crispy, and even though it shimmers under the lights, it’s not at all oily. The sides are what takes this dish from good to great, though: incredible tortillas, tangy crema, and a jicama-cucumber-serrano ceviche, sans the fish.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Barbacoa Blanca

This pile of braised beef is the best thing at Alta. Frankly, it doesn't look like much—sort of like how luxury brands sell plain-looking clothes. In reality, it’s juicy, perfectly seasoned, and comes in a salty jus that’s so light you can see through it. This DIY taco situation (designed for two, but easily eaten by one) comes with tortillas and a scorching salsa borracha that is serious business. Apply with caution.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Tres Leches

This slab of cake is as moist as any respectable tres leches, but it stays well clear of being soggy or sickly sweet. The milk and cream-soaked cake is custardy, and the fruit topping has been different every time we’ve ordered it. We like the element of surprise.