Billed as ‘modern Australian’, Wander is a standout in Stoke Newington’s slightly underwhelming dinner scene. There are certain dishes that make you think, ‘hello’. Chicken liver and bacon parfait served on a hot cross bun with a touch of raisin chutney is delicious and quite unique. Wild garlic spaghetti with crab, ’nduja, and crouton bits is excellent. Not everything is perfect and things feel a bit off the cuff at times, but this is a small plates and natural wines restaurant that has all it needs to set itself apart from the rest.