The Devonshire

The Devonshire, a pub and British restaurant in Soho, is one bonnet and an orphan away from being the set of a Dickens film—in the best way possible. There are roaring fires, groups tucking into suet puddings and bottles of 2019 Barolo Sorano, and perfectly poured Guinnesses served to those who are two pints away from doing their best "please, sir, I want some more" impression. The food is flawless and the temptation to hunker down in the dimly lit, wood-clad space for just one more—sticky toffee pudding or pint—is hard to resist.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: The wood-fired oven at The Devonshire.

The Devonshire understands that British pubs and restaurants should be warm. Downstairs, in the bar area, there's a constant scrum of people—the kind who know the exact resting time for a pint. And the second and third-floor dining rooms are where we want to be during a blizzard or even a light mist of rain. The ferocious heat from a wood-fired oven makes cheeks flush, logs stacked in the corner add a homely touch, and friendly waiters keep you topped up with warm, fluffy, complimentary bread rolls doled out from a silver tray.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

The soundtrack up here is all humming conversation and the crackling fire responsible for your fall-apart Iberico pork ribs. Handwritten menus with curly script are poured over like love letters and glowing lamps are more successful than a facetune filter. Part of the cosiness is down to the snugly packed tables and camaraderie is a given when you’re practically elbow deep in a stranger's prawn and langoustine cocktail. Whoever you’re sitting next to—teenagers in hoodies ordering the £29 set menu or groups settling in for a lobster-fuelled long lunch—you’ll be wooed until that 4pm meeting becomes a distant pipe dream and flickering candles burn down. 

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

When it comes to the dishes, The Devonshire is single-handedly rehabilitating the image of food your grandparents forced on you. Suet pudding comes with buttery, light pastry and hides a rich, deeply flavourful beef cheek and Guinness stew—one of the best we’ve had. And the bread and butter pudding is an airy square of pillowy bread with subtle hints of warming vanilla and nutmeg, and a smooth, silky custard poured on top. In The Devonshire’s hands, even lamb hotpot is exciting: tender meat pulls apart at the mere nudge of a fork, and crisp, thin potato scales are precisely placed. Can a hotpot be elegant? Turns out it can.

Food Rundown

Bread

Don’t save room, get the bread. It’s got a crispy crust, speckled with shards of salt, and a soft centre that can double as a pillow. There’s also something deeply pleasing about the way it’s served: from a massive silver tray cradled in the nook of a server's arm, and placed onto your plate with tongs.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Iberico Pork Ribs

These ribs are barely holding onto the bone. Beautifully charred on the outside and, like all the meat here, softer than the fluffy embrace of a Newfoundland puppy.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Beef & Guinness Suet Pudding

Rich but small, this is the Elijah Wood of the pudding world. If your experience of suet pastry has been a rollercoaster from too hard and heavy, to soft and soggy—try this one. It’s not too thick, tastes buttery, and the spongy texture soaks up the rich gravy from the flavoursome beef and Guinness filling.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Lamb Hotpot

This hotpot comes in a little silver dish that steams theatrically as the lid is removed. The potato scales have been created by a perfectionist, but the soft, rich meat is the real star of the show. This is the platonic ideal of a hotpot.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Duck Fat Chips

These chips cannot be improved upon. They are perfect and fans of ASMR will appreciate their golden crispy little jackets. The insides are fluffy and haven’t gone floury or clumpy, and they’re only improved by swiping them through leftover gravies and punchy peppercorn sauces.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Buttered Carrots

These carrots are sweet and glossy with butter and have little blistered bits which we can never do quite as well at home. We like that they still have a little bite to them too, and aren’t completely mushy.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Creamed Leeks

In search of some greens, we’ve had both the creamed leeks and the peas, onion, and bacon. The creamed leeks come out on top. They’ve been sautéed down to peak sweetness and softness and have the right ratio of cream—which means they aren’t swimming in it.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Peas, Onions & Bacon

Simple and tasty, this medley is a nice straightforward side for richer dishes.

Pumpkin Risotto

A bowl that looks and tastes like autumn, but doesn’t reach the same heights as other dishes on the menu. We appreciate the chunks of caramelised pumpkin on top and scattering of crispy pumpkin seeds, but it’s not something we’re pining for the next day.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Sticky Toffee Pudding

The Devonshire serves its sticky toffee pudding without cream or custard. Frankly, we’ve never seen confidence like it. And it just goes to show that it doesn’t need it. The sponge is light and airy, and the toffee sauce is the perfect shade of butterscotch brown. Use it to baste every last mouthful. And yes, if you desperately need more dairy, you can get ice cream on request—and they won’t charge you extra.

Bread And Butter Pudding

All of the puddings here taste like walking on clouds. The bread and butter is no exception. It’s not cloying or heavy, and it has a deliciously spiced custard that brings a nostalgic homeliness.