LDNReview
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Sonora Taquería
Included In
There aren’t many places where we’d happily test our quad strength by squatting in an alley to eat a taco, but Sonora Taquería in Stoke Newington is one of them. There’s almost always a queue at this Mexican spot, full of people who are probably no stranger to being stopped and papped for a street-style fashion photoshoot. These tacos are worth the wait, they are worth planning your entire day around, and they are worth popping a squat in the neighbouring alley if all the seats are taken.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Sonora is probably London’s worst-kept secret, and so things are a little chaotic inside. The move is to order your food, grab an agua fresca to sip on while you wait, and press yourself up against the wall like a crime scene cutout to avoid the stampede. It’s all great fun, we promise. The suspense, reciting your order in your head, the “sorry, no, my fault” as you inevitably back into someone, and eventually throwing your ticket up in the air and shouting “me!” like you’re in a bingo hall when your name is called.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Once you’ve got your polystyrene treasure box, try your luck downstairs. Things are calmer down here but it’s still pleasant in the bright, canteen-like dining space. Just know that the basic seating has usually already been greedily snapped up by those who are all but French kissing their barbacoa quesadilla to get every drop of rich, meaty sauce. Thursdays are quietest and 1pm is the sweet spot when lunch orders start winding down and people return to work, orange salsa stains visible on crisp white t-shirts. Or is that just us?
But even if you do have to pitch up in the alley, it’s still kind of a scene. Rains backpacks are discarded on the floor and knowing head nods are exchanged with other hungry believers have made the pilgrimage.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
The menu is short and items are struck through when sold out. So like a game of battleships, you’ll have to make the first move (arrive early) or outsmart the people in the queue ahead (get the less-chosen nopales tacos). Ordering is straightforward—it’s all fantastic and it all comes quickly. Fillings are consistently juicy and well-seasoned and the flour tortillas are soft and chewy. There's also the option (strongly encouraged) of adding a crunchy cheese crust. London has a handful of places to eat truly great tacos, but these will become your benchmark tacos to measure all others by.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Barbacoa Quesadilla
Load up on napkins and cancel your afternoon meetings. These tacos have a rich, slow-cooked beef filling that is best followed by a nap and a change of clothes. The toppings are simple but some of our favourites: cubed white onions and a scattering of coriander. If it ain’t broke, don’t put truffle on it.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Nopales Tacos
A nice counterpoint to some of the heavier, meatier options on the menu, these nopales tacos are our favourite option when we’re craving something peppery, crunchy, and vegetal. Like all vegetables, this grilled cactus is improved by salty cheese crumbled on top and a slightly spicy pico de gallo.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Carne Asada Tacos
This taco feels like a real ‘treat yourself’ moment. It comes stuffed with soft, pink pieces of grilled steak with a charred crust. It sounds premium but costs less than a fiver—so doubling up is a good option if you want to bring one back for the work bestie who taught you how to use spreadsheets. It also pairs well with the crunchy cabbage and sweet pickled onions.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Pork Quesadilla
Gooey and cheesy with smoky, porky cubes, this quesadilla is everything you want from a weekend lunch, especially if you’re feeling fragile. If you’re rolling with a group, you’ll want to order a few of these crowd-pleasers to share.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Adobada Tacos
The tender pieces of pork in this taco have the kind of crispy, grilled edge we can never replicate at home. Diced pineapples are studded throughout like little gold jewels and provide a nice sweet hit whenever you get one. The habanero salsa keeps things balanced and makes an agua fresca essential sipping.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Bean Taco
A plain bean taco might not sound compelling compared to the other meaty, saucy ones on the menu. But trust us when we say you need to order at least one of these. A folded tortilla, stuffed with creamy, rich, smooth refried beans, is simple in theory, £1 in cost, but a revelation in flavour and texture.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Caramelo Taco
All the best things from Sonora’s menu in one taco. A soft, gossamer-like tortilla has a swipe of creamy refried beans, a cheese crust, cubes of tender, pink grilled beef, crunchy slivers of cabbage, and tangy-sweet strips of pickled onion.