LDNReview

Sichuan Fry

Like most chicken shops, Sichuan Fry is set up for a grab-and-go situation. Bright lighting, screen-ordering, a handful of hard stools, and high-tempo music all set the scene for a transient meal if you do stay. Just ask for extra napkins and prepare to get messy in front of anyone coming through the door. Our go-to order at the Hackney fried chicken joint (from the people behind Dumpling Shack) is the hot Sichuan sandwich. Everything works in exquisite harmony: the soft potato bun; the crunchy, juicy, hot chicken thigh; sweet and spicy mala-spiked honey sauce; and tangy pickles and slaw. The surprise hit side to accompany the sando? Not the bag of crinkle fries, but a tub of garlicky, blistered green beans.

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