LDNReview
Pavyllon feels like an accessory for people who are more concerned with being seen eating here, rather than actually eating here. But that’s par for the course for a fine dining restaurant inside Mayfair’s Four Seasons Hotel. There’s the awkward squat-shuffle dance as seats are tucked in. And small baskets made of cheese are presented with the air of a rare gift. Despite the crowd being try-hard, the food is not. Plates of modern European dishes come out with the choreographed precision of a beauty pageant parade, and look as good as they taste.
photo credit: Pavyllon
photo credit: Pavyllon
There are some eye-roll inducing moments—“would you like me to explain the prawn cocktail to you?”—and lots of ‘takes’ on things, but these are tasty rather than tortured. A highlight is the stroganoff, with fragrant rice soaking up the sauce from a fillet of beef so soft it can be nudged apart with a spoon, and a scattering of match-thin, crispy potatoes on top. Getting a seat at the counter is the best way to experience Pavyllon. You’ll be sitting with people schmoozing clients and putting champagne on the company card, but it overlooks the pristine kitchen which feels buzzy compared with the dining room. Although nothing can stop Pavyllon from feeling like it’s somewhere you go for the kudos of snagging a table, rather than the delicious dishes themselves.
