The walls may be standard-issue bare brick and inoffensive off-white, but this place bursts with colour in paintings, tiles, pottery, and tablecloths. El Inca Plebeyo serves Ecuadorian food, which is not a million miles from the more famous Peruvian. Ceviche and grilled meats are the big dishes, and at the weekend they serve hornado, a national dish of slow-cooked pork with crackling and garnishes that’s worth coming specially for. Kick off with a cocktail, and then order at least one fish starter, a side of fried plantains, and the lamb rump if you want something from the grill. Waiting staff are eager and expert if you need advice. There’s always music playing, and group dinners are great here - try to get the big table at the back where you can see the kitchen in action.