LDNReview

Cross Restaurant

Name: Cross Restaurant
Item: Cross Restaurant

Jake Missing

September 7, 2023

There’s a warmth to Cross Restaurant that isn’t just reserved for the food. This Goan spot in Wembley Central is all plastic tablecloths and maternal service mixed with the sizzling sound of deep-frying from the kitchen. Joking friends and solo workers stretch their lunch break to the limit in this low-key room and it’s easy to do the same with deep-fried tilapia and prawn thali. The tray arrives with an artful mound of rice, a pot of fragrant fish red curry, pickles, kisum, sol kodi, and crunchy semolina fried fish. It’s sweet, sour, a little spicy, and a generous meal for one. The menu suits big and small appetites—chouriço pão (spiced Goan sausage in a Portuguese bun)—speaks to the Catholic influence enforced by Portuguese rule in Goa back in the 16th century, as does the restaurant's name. But nothing about this comfortable neighbourhood spot feels particularly prescriptive.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch