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Review

Café Deco

££££
Written by

There are restaurants you want to be in for special occasions, others you save for your beloved, and some that you simply want to age decrepitly and drunkenly in. Café Deco is all of the above. Small but perfectly formed, much like the food it serves, there is little not to love about what Anna Tobias (of Rochelle Canteen and River Cafe kitchens) and the 40 Maltby Street team has done here.

The menu may be short, 12 dishes or so, but the time you spend here won’t be. Pork crackling with apple sauce, eggs and mayo with a single anchovy perched on top, and ham - a glorious plate of ham! - are all things that you’ll gobble as swiftly as a deer. Until said deer turns up in the shape of a bowl of venison stew and mash. Truly the most luxurious of baby food, though everything here should be paired with something from the brilliant, wandering, low-intervention wine list that is strictly for the adults. Set in the hushed surroundings around UCL, this unconventionally conventional café, restaurant, shop and soon-to-be wine bar hybrid feels right. So much so that perhaps Bloomsbury will have another blue plaque here in the future. One that could read ‘Anna Tobias, Chef, Made people happy here’.

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