Bébé Bob

Bébé Bob comes from the same restaurant group that brought London the ‘Press For Champagne’ button and, at first glance, this shiny spot on Soho Square feels similarly extroverted. It’s bold, bright, and could be the location for Austin Powers’ supper club. Look past its kaleidoscopic interior and you'll quickly realise that this showy rotisserie restaurant has a simple heart. It makes excellent chicken, roasts crispy potatoes, and is a welcomely uncomplicated dining option in an often annoying part of London.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

The carpet, banquettes, and walls glow red and blue, there’s a selection of caviars on the menu, and we wouldn’t be surprised if there was a Bollinger-fuelled conversation pit in another room. At night, glasses clink and laughter cackles across the room. Young PR sorts with Soho House memberships get down with the truffled fries just as much as the old Groucho advertising heads do with a portion of Vendée chicken at the bar. Frankly, it’s all much better value than any membership club.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Peacocking aside, Bébé Bob is a practical restaurant. Old-school starters like prawn cocktail are expertly made and there are two choices of main: chicken or chicken. The Landes one (French, yellow, fancy) is pushed to the highest scale on the juice-o-meter while wearing an impressively crisp overshirt. It only comes whole. The less rich Vendée is similarly delicious and makes a strong solo lunch or dinner at the bar.

Every once in a while the kids’ menu gives the grown-ups a pang of jealousy, and Bébé Bob seems to get that. This isn’t a restaurant that wants to break the boundaries of gastronomy. It wants you to eat chicken, chips, get a little loose on champagne, and let your iPhone tell you to turn your headphones down on the tube home.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Dégustation Of Caviars

This selection of Siberian sturgeon, Osciereta, and Amurski caviar is about as relatable as an anecdote from Prince William. The freshly made blinis are very good and, if you like caviar, this will go down a treat.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Prawn Cocktail

Chopped iceberg, plump prawns, and not-too-cloying marie rose sauce can be a beautiful thing when done right. This one is. Apparently there’s cognac in the sauce but that’s hard to tell. It’s a great version of a classic either way.

photo credit: Jake Missing

Landes Chicken

A Landes chicken is one of those posh French yellow ones—the kind that had a big garden and listened to Radio 4 in the morning. And it tastes all the better for it. The skin is cooked to a sensational crisp and the meat so tender, and almost gamey tasting. It comes with a glistening chicken jus, the colour of a conker and the flavour of every good roast rolled into one.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Vendée Chicken

Marginally less posh but still a cut above what comes out of your oven on a Sunday, this chicken is a little less rich and equally delicious. The meat is juicy and the skin delightfully crisp.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Roast Potatoes

Lots of people claim to have the perfect roastie recipe and this one isn’t far off. Golden, crisp, and faintly jagged, these chicken fat-roasted potatoes are very good. Thyme and rosemary are always welcome too.