LDNReview
Appetite London
Appetite works best for times when the only question you want to answer is, “bloody or medium-rare?” and “chips or salad?” Maybe you’ve just been to the human washing machine that is Westfield, or got chased by a pack of cyclists in Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. Whatever the reason you’re in Stratford, a perfectly cooked piece of meat and glass of red wine can fix it. This steakhouse has a butchery counter and small deli on one side and a dining room on the other—which means there’s a good chance you’ll eat overlooking a raw pork chop. An effort has been made with the industrial-chic look—steel seats, wooden tables, and simple copper light fittings—to make things feel more restaurant than abattoir. The result is a comfortable, quiet spot that works for casual weeknight meals and low-key dates when neither of you can be bothered to cook, and small talk is all you have the energy for. Meats are well-seasoned, cooked simply, and served with a fiery peppercorn sauce. We’d skip the basic bistro salad and get the caesar instead, and chips for mopping up the juices.