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Costera is a clubstaurant that tries to channel Tulum with liberal use of straw, palm trees, and enough rope to fund a legion of double-dutch teams. This Mexican spot from the team behind Nisos has all the markers of a place you visit to drunk-laugh while shelling out $48 for below-average al pastor flambéed tableside. Some dishes are solid—like the short rib quesadilla (which is really more of an empanada) or the spaghetti with lobster and guajillo cream—but most (like a plate of flavorless octopus) are underwhelming.
The real draws here are the fruit-forward drinks (which come with over-the-top presentations—like an Old Fashioned that arrives in a smoke-filled box and is poured tableside). Drinks, and the fact that a 6pm dinner still means dim lighting, free-flowing bottle sparklers, and loud, bass-heavy music on repeat. It might throw off your circadian rhythm, but makes for an entertaining time.