The Commissary is a small, graffiti-covered space in the center of town from the same team as The Test Kitchen and The Potluck Club. But instead of plates that were definitely constructed with tweezers, the food here can only be described as American carnival food with an Asian twist - things like barbecue pork belly with toasted coconut and deep-fried, skewered shrimp “prawn dogs.” They don’t take reservations, but you can wait for your table over beers at The House of Machines next door.