ATLReview

photo credit: Tabia S. Lisenbee-Parker

Omakase Table  image
9.1

Best New Restaurants

2023

Omakase Table

Sushi

Westside

$$$$Perfect For:Date NightSpecial OccasionsCorporate Cards
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We’re not ashamed to say we’ve fallen asleep on a few Scorsese movies (and we’ve never gone back to finish The Irishman, sorry Marty). The “more is more” philosophy doesn’t play to short attention spans. But of course, there are always exceptions, and one of them is Omakase Table on the Westside. With a whopping 20 courses—the most among the city's high dollar omakase competitors—this $235 sushi dinner is filled with so many delightful, unexpected surprises that even the easily distractible won't want it to end. The 12-seat omakase counter feels intimate, but the lighting is a little too precise for it to be cozy. Behind the counter is an expert sushi maker who walks through the details of all the dishes, explains Japanese food traditions, and provides a coveted look at his prized collection of vintage sushi knives, which could probably finance a few homes. 

Omakase Table  image

photo credit: Tabia S. Lisenbee-Parker

And after the first few courses hit the table, each on one stunning Japanese ceramic after another, it becomes apparent that chef is just a collector of beautiful treasures. The cool drinkware alone is motivation enough to splurge on the $135 sake pairing. 

But not to be outdone, the meal itself is a journey of fun discoveries—kind of like opening an advent calendar. But uni rice with grilled toro delights in a way that a stale chocolate could never. By the time the nigiri courses arrive, the plot thickens with silky cuts of Japanese-imported akami and kanpachi that nearly dissolves away in your mouth as if defying the laws of matter. At the end of the 20-course experience, it’s hard to pick a clear favorite since the memories of the charred scabbard with pickled plum play back just as fondly as the buttery, pâté-topped striped jack. We just wish we had an extra $235 and stomach reserve to run it all back for the next dinner setting.

Food Rundown

Yuzu Old Fashioned

When Omakase Table first opened, they were BYOB. While we’re sad to see that cost-savings opportunity go (now there’s a $100 corkage fee), we welcome their list of craft cocktails like this Old Fashioned made with a charred orange peel, black pepper notes, and a yuzu liqueur that works as a gently sweet cushion to balance the heavy pour of Japanese whisky.

Omakase Table  image

photo credit: Tabia S. Lisenbee-Parker

Omakase

The 20-course meal starts with a complimentary spoon of caviar and sparkling wine to set the mood for your expensive sushi dinner. The next courses sort of spin you around, but in a good way. There are roughly six early plates—which may include some sweet and pickley, earthy and metallic, and salty and acidic seafood dishes—that make you forget the true stars are supposed to be the nigiri. Yet, with some of the silkiest cuts of fish (like toro and kanpachi flown straight fresh from Japan), the competition for the favorite bite of the night will heat up until the very last course.

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FOOD RUNDOWN

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