Katsuo + Kombu

Once could argue that this city is built on the back of soup. It's easy to find clam chowder, ramen, cioppino, and so much more in our foggy 7x7 confines, but not every bowl stands out. The Fukuoka-style udon at Katsuo + Kombu in NoPa, however, will uncross the arms of any soup skeptic. Compared to the Sanuki-style udon common across SF, these bowls are stunning—filled with thinner noodles, richer broths, and special toppings.

Without broth, soup isn’t soup at all—kind of like Duboce Park without any dogs. Katsuo + Kombu’s light-brown katsuobushi broth is much creamier than what you’ll find in the thinner Sanuki-style udon in chains across the city (which are typically watery enough to qualify as La Croix). The katsuobushi tastes like you stuck a straw into the middle of Ocean Beach, and slurped. Only, it's warmer in temperature. This smoked and fermented tuna (katsuo) and kelp (kombu) based broth is the basis for our undying love for this restaurant. Each slurp is a further descent into sauna-like full-body relaxation. 

photo credit: Brit Finnegan

photo credit: Brit Finnegan

A great bowl of udon needs chewy noodles, and Katsuo + Kombo nails them. Aside from being physically thin and bouncy, these noodles are as wheaty as a sourdough loaf. They accompany every Katsuo + Kombu’s bowl, but if you want to try them in as close to an unadulterated form as possible, get the cold fukuoka signature with burdock root and chicken tempura, or the niku beef with just the burdock root tempura. 

But where's the fun in being such a purist? Everything coalesces when more toppings come into the mix. Each of the garnishes adds another element to the udon, whether it’s a crunch from freshly made tempura, brightness from shiso leaves and red pepper, or creaminess from an egg. Try the tan tan dry with finely chopped, perfectly crispy and spicy kurobuta pork, plump eggplant, and a custardy egg. Or consider their take on a curry udon that’s extra rich and covered in farmers' market vegetables that add something to sink your teeth into.

photo credit: Brit Finnegan

photo credit: Brit Finnegan

photo credit: Brit Finnegan

Even if these bowls were served in the middle of the bison paddock, we’d gladly dodge some bovine to eat them. But the reality is that Katsuo + Kombu is not in Golden Gate Park, and you'll be dodging humans for a chance at these bowls instead. You could line up for plenty of soup in this city, but this line happens to move fast, and the pretty bowls are always well worth it. And while coming with friends is always a treat, you could always ditch them for a faster seat and solo, silent soup bliss. Soon, you too will uncross your arms and be willing to wait next to a MUNI stop in the pouring rain for Katsuo + Kombu.

Food Rundown

Niku Beef

The classic hot option done exceedingly well. Great broth, thinly sliced beef, and a piece of freshly fried burdock root tempura gently placed into the bowl to create a golden ratio.

photo credit: Brit Finnegan

Tan Tan Dry

The broth here is amazing, but this brothless version is more than worth the look. It’s full of spicy, crispy kurobata pork, tan tan sauce, eggplant, and a luxurious, custardy egg. Break the egg, and get mixing.

photo credit: Brit Finnegan

The Curry

We would push someone out of the way to get the last of this broth. Wagyu beef curry is combined with the already showstopping broth and layers upon layers of veggies making this the maximalist version of udon at its best. (Also it has that custardy egg).

photo credit: Brit Finnegan

Fukuoka Signature

The classic cold udon, served with burdock root tempura and chicken tempura. This is what you should get if you’re looking for a cold udon that showcases excellent fundamentals and toppings.