Akikos, the Union Square omakase spot, just moved into a swanky new location in the East Cut—so good news for anyone who expects the same fantastic sushi this place is known for. What you might not expect: smoky mackerel sashimi served atop a white ceramic fedora wrapped in a garland of leaves. Yes, a ceramic fedora. It’s one of the many over-the-top (if not slightly quirky) presentation touches that make Akikos stand out. Scallops are served in glass clamshells. Nigiri is placed directly on the gleaming U-shaped wooden bar for you to admire (then eat). And aged fish hang from see-through fridges in the dining room like fancy coats on display. At $250 for 18 courses (or $150 for a slightly abridged menu at lunch), this is a meal worthy of big birthdays, extra-fancy date nights, or any occasion that's highlighted in neon yellow on your calendar.

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