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Review

Mary Stuart

Pizzarium

KP
Written by
Mary Stuart
Perfect For: Cheap Eats Lunch

More than a dozen varieties of pizza fill the counter at this small, famous takeaway. The pizzas are made from dough mixed from heirloom wheats and subjected to a long, cold fermentation, a process that creates a chewy, light, and flavorful base. Master baker Bonci and his team top their pizzas with cheese, cured meats, and vegetables (and occasionally fruits) from nearby farms. “Flavors” change according to the season—persimmon, romanesco, pumpkin, and artichokes in cold weather and zucchini, peppers and eggplant when it warms up—but you’ll always find classics like tomato with oregano and potato with mozzarella. This is an essential lunch or snack stop when in Rome.

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