Getting a table at Roscioli is about as difficult as remembering when Italians switch from saying “good morning” to “good evening” (it’s around noon, which yes, does feel early.). And that’s because the famous dishes, like their amatriciana and carbonara, burrata with sundried tomatoes, and thinly-sliced mortadella and parmesan, live up to their hype. The wine list is superb, with thousands of bottles to choose from. Some, including the Catalanesca InSumma, are produced exclusively for the restaurant.

Roscioli’s family-run empire also includes a deli with cured meats, cheeses, and pasta kits, which you’ll find inside the main restaurant; an antico forno serving up bread, pastries, and pizza; a caffè e pasticceria; and Rimessa Roscioli, a full restaurant and wine bar that does great tastings (and is also easier to snag a reservation).