Gift Horse

If Gift Horse (the buzzy new restaurant from the folks at Oberlin) could be summed up in two words, it would be weird and fishy—and we mean this in the best way possible. A boggle-eyed horse stares out from a stained glass montage above the bar, while the colorful wallpaper creates a dizzying effect in the bathrooms. At the center of it all is the raw bar, a glittering seafood shrine of ice, shellfish, and crustaceans.

The Slack Tide tower is a must-order with dainty littlenecks, gently cooked mussels, smoked fish dip and nori chips, crudo speckled with flaky salt, and oysters served with kimchi mignonette. Definitely get the caviar and doughboys—a savory twist on the local, greasy beachside staple. The cocktails naturally have nautical names, like the Devil in the Deep Blue Sea: a potent mix of amaro, amontillado sherry, madeira, and falernum that’ll grow hair on your chest faster than Blackbeard’s pistols went off. Only sort of kidding.

Included in