Xiao Ye

The chef duo behind Hollywood’s Xiao Ye gives a delicious lesson in “first-generation American food.” Rigatoni all’amatriciana is livened up with preserved chiles, and Jolyn’s Favorite Noodle V. 1, a riff on late-night meals made with pantry staples like black vinegar and chili crisp, is both tasty and comforting. Order the madeleines made from masa and mochi, served with whipped butter and jalapeño powder, to really understand their playful vision. With mismatched chairs and pale green wainscoting, the space feels like a cozy cottage that’s casual enough for a weeknight dinner. The food, however, is special enough for date night.