PHLReview
photo credit: Gina Desimone
Mulherin’s Pizzeria
While there are similarities between Mulherin’s Pizzeria in Center City and its sister restaurant in Fishtown—namely the industrial-chic, ski-chalet vibes and charming outdoor patio—the food couldn’t be more different. In fact, the pizza, pasta, and small plates here remind us of something we’d have at the Philadelphia airport, not one of our favorite Italian restaurants. The gem caesar salad has more breadcrumbs than lettuce, the undercooked pasta is covered in gloopy, indiscernible sauce, and the pizza’s toppings slide off the limp, wet crust before you have time to get it to your mouth. The one redeeming bite is the fresh, simply dressed kanpachi crudo, but if fish is what you’re after, you’re better off heading to Double Knot around the corner. For now, skip this Mulherin’s $22 cocktails, grab a Lyft across town, and have dinner at the OG.