Marc Vetri’s Fiore Rosso–a gorgeous and sprawling Italian steakhouse in Bryn Mawr–should be a masterpiece. After all, it’s in the same restaurant empire as Fiorella and Vetri Cucina, two of our highest-rated restaurants. Well-dressed couples and colleagues dine in front of countless works of art lining the walls, including a Miró and a Picasso. The Somm’s Selections of wine start at $200 a bottle, and you can easily spend that much per person.

But somehow, Fiore Rosso evokes more Cheesecake Factory than Vetri Cucina. Opposite the Picasso, ESPN flashes on a big screen TV for a few after-work guests with beers. The menu is extensive, but most dishes are unremarkable. The crudo is melt-in-your-mouth tender, but flavorless. The maitake mushrooms are underseasoned, but float in a delicious parmesan custard and prosciutto brodo (you’ll need to slurp, since you’re not given spoons). All of the pastas arrive cold, and while the carrot anolini and jumbo lump crab-stuffed crespelle are beautiful, the sauces are forgettable.

Perhaps the most disappointing part is the steaks–both the wagyu rib cap and the exorbitant Bistecca alla Fiorentina arrive purple-raw and inedible. While the staff is knowledgeable and extremely friendly, details like clearing glasses and empty wine bottles are overlooked. A server did, however, recommend a four-course meal deal at a different restaurant. Unfortunately, we do, too.