Sukh

If you squint hard enough, you could convince yourself that you’re at a Thai train station when you eat at Sukh in Fort Greene. Between the linen curtains, pew-like benches outside, and the menu, which looks like a newspaper and is full of bits of trivia about Thai railroad culture, it’s convincing enough. What’s also convincing is their food. Come with a friend or a very casual date—it’s pretty tight in there, so large groups may be hard—and split a couple dishes. Order the hor mok, a steamed branzino custard topped with some beautifully steamed crab and a slice of chili. The pla muk yang, a whole grilled squid, is nice and squeaky, and the chili lime dressing brightens up the whole dish.

photo credit: Mitree Pumee