Go Nonna

A pair of old-fashioned, wire-rimmed glasses painted on the facade of Go Nonna sends a clear message: It may not look like it, but this is grandma’s house. The small Long Island City restaurant offers a blend of Italian and Argentinian cooking, leaning more heavily towards the former. That said, with Fernet and Coke on the menu, and a replica license plate from Argentina hanging proudly in the bathroom (“PIPI ROOM”), there’s no mistaking Go Nonna for your average red-sauce joint. Yes, there's impeccably crispy chicken parm, and a tiramisu that achieves the golden ratio of mascarpone to espresso, but you'll also find steak with zingy chimichurri.

Stick with the simplest dishes—especially the fresh pasta and desserts—and you’ll enjoy a supremely comforting, generously portioned meal, worthy of a favorite grandchild. Skip the meatballs, which are a little bland, but get the lightly charred endives, grilled right to the edge of bitter and sweet. That way you can look your reflection in the eye and say, “Yes, I did eat a vegetable today.” Nonna would be so proud.

photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick