Bey Bey

Between the sleek space and the abstract menu designed like a PAMM brochure, Bey Bey on Sunset Harbor has a showy nonchalance that feels cool. The intrigue slips a little once your food arrives, though. The staff will tell you the menu is inspired by Lebanese and Mediterranean flavors, which is mostly true, aside from the scallop crudo and spinach gyoza. And, from what we’ve tried so far, the small plates are missing spice and balance. Oily zucchini blossom tempura tastes more like goat cheese than anything else, and cubed green apples make a crudo with salsa verde confusingly sweet and yearning for acidity. Still, the space works for cocktails and maybe a slice of sweet, tangy labneh cheesecake on a limestone table.