Fugaz

This tiny restaurant has limited hours (it’s only open Thursday to Saturday between 2-10pm), but it’s worth rearranging your schedule to show up right when they open. The menu is small and changes often, which just means you should order everything on it. That might include a smoky sopa de pescado, or a perfectly charred roasted eggplant smothered in a yogurt sauce. Locals also like to start their night here with mezcal, cubitas, and vermouth, and many stay past dessert, so if you’re looking to blend in, partake in sobremesa and stay for a few rounds of drinks.