L’Établi’s set menus of three, six, or seven courses hit the spot without leaving you stuffed. Most impressive is the sheer variety of textures—confit egg yolk, melty squid ink risotto, and sugary poached asparagus for dessert (it works!). They’re all great, but you’ll still be dreaming about the humble bread you were served with it all: a crusty cob smeared in black sesame butter with a flavor that isn't humble at all. Look under your coffee cup to find a hidden dessert.

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