Soprano is, as it’s affectionately known in “the biz,” a purely utilitarian restaurant. Their location - at the intersection of Hollywood and Vine - makes them extremely convenient, a perfect (or at least, approximate) place to eat on the Walk of Fame or after a show at the Pantages. But if you’re looking for Italian food that’s actually interesting - fuhgeddaboudit. While nothing here is bad per se, everything from the bucatini pomodoro to the chicken parm to the celebrity-named pizzas are pretty forgettable, and exist in that thrilling culinary range of “fine” to “slightly more than fine.” And although the checkered tiles and black tablecloths make it feel like you’re dining at a place Tony Soprano himself would stop by before heading to the Bada Bing, the big, impressive space and convenient location are a bit wasted on this Italian restaurant.
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