LAReview

Nersses Vanak

Persian

Glendale

$$$$Perfect For:Walk-InsLunch

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Though they also offer a traditional array of very good Persian kabobs, the legendary dish at the father-and-son-operated Nersses Vanak in Glendale is their ab goosht, a rich and hearty stew of lamb, chickpea, potato, and various spices that gets served in two parts. You'll be presented with a bowl filled with the dark red tomato broth from the stew and a plate of the stew fillings—tender lamb chunks and vegetables—that have been smashed into oblivion so they become a thick, incredibly savory paste. Another plate of raw onion, basil, and sheets of fresh-baked lavash comes with it. Take a big spoonful of the stew paste, spread it on the bread, add some herbs and onion, wrap it up and dip it in the broth, eat and repeat. If that's still not clear, just watch the rest of the tables around you—chances are they'll all be involved in the same mouthwatering dance. Get a side of their housemade pickles, too.

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