LAReview
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Mae Malai
Included In
Mae Malai originally started as a street vendor in Thai Town, which, at times, was less than convenient—a night might involve circling the block for a meter, fishing out a forgotten $10 bill from the glove compartment, or speed walking to the nearest ATM because we forgot to get cash (again). It was a pain in the butt, but we never cared because their incredible boat noodles were worth it.
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Without getting too nostalgic over a bowl of soup, we’re happy to say Mae Malai’s brick-and-mortar is not only as good as their street stand, but even better. Their home is now a barebones strip mall space just a block away, equipped with card readers and ample parking (thank goodness). And, like the kitchen space, the menu has expanded, too. You can walk in for a casual lunch or dinner that entails shrimp-filled omelets, housemade lemongrass-y Northern Thai sausage, and a “poached and dipped beef” dish that’s essentially a spicy, funky offal salad with liver, tripe, and plenty of lime juice. Still, you’re probably coming here for the boat noodles, which are some of the best in the city.
For $9, you’re served a small cup of chewy rice noodles, juicy pork-beef meatballs, and crackly pork rinds, all swimming in an incredibly sharp-spicy-sour broth. If you like intense, in-your-face flavors that light up taste buds you didn’t know you had, you’ll want seconds. Ordering is customizable, from noodle shape to spice level. We won’t assume your heat tolerance, but if you order “Thai spicy,” the friendly staff will try to talk you out of it. Make of that what you will, but even medium spicy is enough to make us glisten like we’re wearing a trash bag in a sauna.
As special as the sensation of slurping this delicious, murky broth on the sidewalk was, Mae Malai is much more accessible now. It’s also never too busy, which makes it a great option for group walk-ins or just a quick, delicious, and reasonably-priced meal. And that comes in handy, especially when other Thai Town restaurants get packed on busy nights and wait times surpass your parking meter. Salvage the night and treat whoever you wish to some incredible noodles at Mae Malai.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Boat Noodles
I-Saan Sausage
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Tom Yum Noodle
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Thai Omelette