It’s the Return of the (Burger) King: New to Abbot Kinney is Adrift, the brainchild of David Myers, formerly of LA’s Comme Ça (the now-closed home of a burger once declared “perfect” by The New York Times). And it’s a fitting addition to his legacy. There are only three burgers on the menu, which is a good thing, because you should definitely order them all. The 1940s Classic is an old-school option, with appropriately old-school toppings (lettuce, tomato, pickles, etc), while the DM (with aged Vermont cheddar and “secret sauce”) and the Adrift (kicked up with tomato-and-Indian-ajowan jam, pickled jalapeños, and a pair of cheeses) push things forward, and though the latter was my favorite, they’re all worth your time. Throw in amazing shakes, curry leaf fries, and must-order fried button mushrooms, and you’ve got a spot so good, it’ll leave you bowing in reverence.
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