The Sea, The Sea

Despite sounding like the musings of a Dylan Thomas enthusiast, this seafood bar is pretty straightforward. Chelsea locals wander in for half a dozen rock oysters while dates clink glasses over a plate of salmon sashimi outside. The small slick space, part fishmonger and part restaurant, is reminiscent of a sushi counter—but the small plates menu draws inspiration from all over. There are meaty chunks of chilled smoked eel with cucumber, lobster mi cut (part-cooked) which appears to be a favourite with families around these parts, and larger hot dishes like monkfish with an XO sauce. To its credit, it doesn’t force itself to be a full meal kind of place. Rather, like the excellent produce you can buy here, you can make it whatever you want it to be.