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Review

Kettner’s Townhouse

££££
French  in  Soho
Written by

The London institution founded in 1867 is now under the control of the all powerful and omnipresent Soho House group - a.k.a. the members’ club answer to Pret. World domination jokes aside, the restoration job on this restaurant, hotel and bar combo is really something. It’s the sort of place we’d take someone who didn’t know us at all and could therefore be fooled into thinking we drink champagne by candlelight on a daily basis. As with everything this lot do, it looks fabulous honey, and the couple next to you will be saying/thinking/texting the same thing. Food-wise it’s all a bit meh though. Zédel already owns the mid-to-average brasserie tag in these parts, unfortunately for Kettner’s. Come for the bar, not the bouillabaisse.

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