Hoa Phuong

If you've tried and failed to go to Hoa Phuong a few times (the tiny cash-only Vietnamese spot in Elephant and Castle has either a hint of mystique about its opening times or is a wind-up merchant), you should know that its bún bò huế, summer rolls, and more are worth the wait. The lurid shrimp broth of the former looks positively volcanic and it tastes that way too. Flecks of lemongrass, garlic, ginger, and chilli are all there, on the eye and electrifying your tongue, while cuts of beef are chewy and fatty alongside perfect slices of chả bò. The box-sized space is Hoa Phuong’s sole owner and chef's domain. Everything is made to order and if you're nice, polite, and luck is on your side you'll be allowed to eat in at one of the four seats. She is a proprietor who has customers waiting and playing by her rules for very good reason.