Set within the grand, Edwardian Town Hall Hotel in Bethnal Green, Da Terra’s dining room is light, airy, and elegant in a very minimalist east London way. Although fancy, the vibe is casual, as is the Brazilian way. Local seasonal produce is treated with the utmost care, blending them with Brazilian delicacies to create an homage to Brazil, Britain, and Italy, where chef Rafael Cagali’s ancestors hail from. Prawns might be served with palm hearts, chicken with tart tucupí, a brilliant baba made with cachaça instead of rum. The aged turbot moqueca is a highly cheffy take on the classic, turning the tomato, coconut, and palm oil sauce into a delicate, frothy broth that might scare traditionalists but is delicious. Sure this kind of cooking comes at significant cost, but this isn’t a stuffy old-school establishment, and, perhaps befitting the location, wines tend towards low-intervention. It’s Brazilian cooking as many will never have seen before.