LDNReview

There was a moment, as we ummed and ahhed between ordering rabbit pasta or steak and chips at Café Cecilia, when we remembered, with the help of some warm and understanding words and a white port and tonic, that you should always follow your gut. And when your gut tells you that you should go for the onglet with peppercorn sauce and chips, you listen. Just as we’d listened when it told us to come back to the new daytime London Fields restaurant for lunch having had a black pudding breakfast there the same morning. Despite its location in a slick new build and its cool marble white interior, there’s an unmistakeable warmth about Café Cecilia. It’s in the fizzing green peppercorn sauce, it’s in the present and always-pleasant staff, and it’s in a menu that leads with Guinness bread and butter. Before opening his own place, head chef Max Rocha had stints at the River Cafe as well as St. John Bread and Wine, while manager Kate Towers came from Rochelle Canteen. But even without that kind of CV, your gut will more than likely tell you to spend spend all morning, day and, when it opens for dinner, night here.

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