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There are two difficult tasks to accomplish at French Gourmet. The first one is getting into the steep, tiny parking lot. The second is figuring out what to order from the multitude of whimsically-iced sugar cookies, and trays of rich dark chocolate fudge, and croissants so butter-laden just touching one substitute as a moisturizer. The French bakery opened in 1973 on the edge of River Oaks and Montrose. Early morning office-goers are grabbing a dozen eclairs or almond croissants while custom cake orders are trotted out from behind the pastry case. And on any given day, someone is probably walking out with a massive baguette in one hand while the other rips off hunks of bread, all before they even make it to the car.