HOUReview
El Taconazo
No matter the time of day or night, the beloved cash-only Northside fixture El Taconazo has a line that never seems to end. Folks here range from the taco obsessed to ravenous post-clubbers to the run-of-the-mill neighborhood regular. Yet, regardless of purpose or source of hunger, everyone waits for their turn to taste tortilla-wrapped nirvana with the same sense of excitement. El Taconazo’s tacos are worth the wait.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
The food here has a depth of smoky flavor and slight crispy char that seems impossible to achieve in a truck that tiny, but El Taconazo cranks it out. Only four meat options are available: grilled fajita, charred trompo, rich barbacoa, or smoky lengua. Ask for them as either tacos, quesadillas, or plates (with or without cheese). Everything you order is cooked, bagged up, and placed in front of the window about three seconds after you ask for it. So whether you want two tacos or 20, food instantly poofs into existence.
There are no tables or chairs, but no one seems to mind. Folks either chill on the curb and pour salsa verde over foil-wrapped quesadillas, or fan out a plate of smoky fajita beef smothered in cheese on the hood of their car. Once it gets dark, the parking lot across the street turns into an impromptu party, with people jamming car stereos, tacos in hand, while sipping styrofoam cups of jamaica, often until past 2am on the weekends. Go to El Taconazo for some of the best tacos in Houston nearly any time of day, or night. There might always be a line, but it takes less time than you think, and it’s always worth the wait.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Food Rundown
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Plato Especial Con Fajita
The plato especial takes smoky and charred fajita beef, smothers it in shredded white cheese, and smashes down half a dozen corn tortillas on top before wrapping the whole thing in foil. Everything stays steamy and hot, which makes for a satisfying greasy cheese pull.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Tacos De Trompo
The smoky flavor of the trompo is incredible given the size of the truck. Served Monterrey-style, the small slices of trompo are fatty with just a hit of char.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Tacos De Barbacoa
While El Taconazo may not specialize in barbacoa, it delivers fatty and rich beef nonetheless. Eliminate needless squabbling over what meat reigns supreme and just get them all.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Frijoles Charros
The frijoles charros here are basically half pork. Every little cup appears to contain roughly three strips of bacon along with tender, savory pinto beans.