Opening a taqueria inside a marketplace full of Mexican dry goods and produce could feel like putting a hat on a hat. But thankfully Comalito and Houston Farmers Market are both cool hats, so it works. The Mexico City-style taco spot serves a long list of suaderos, quesadillas, and crispy cheese-slathered tostadas dim sum-style in the back of the market. And the food tastes so good, it's worth doubling back through the market again to eat there again.
Like most dim sum spots, ordering starts by numbering items on a double-sided menu and sliding it to the edge of the table for someone to grab. Then, after a brief wait, hot plates of arrachera and thin pineapple-laced pastor arrive almost immediately. Depending on what gets ordered and how much, fleets of little plates arrive with wonderful handmade tortillas filled with charred chicharron or bistek, or smothered in sauteed cheese and onions. Normally, grabbing tacos behind a market often means a barebones dining situation. But Comalito is big, flashy, and not inexpensive, and the lack of direction might make you not sure who to talk to or how to get started. When you want more (which you will) you can just grab more paper, flag someone down, and start the entire dance all over again.