After spending the better part of a year serving wood-fired pizzas and oysters, Bruto changed directions, opting to become a chef’s counter with two services per evening. The food itself also changed dramatically, as the chef transformed the place into a celebration of the food of Mexico, Texas, Colorado, Japan, and Korea. This is a special place built for special occasions, with dishes changing seasonally and really whenever else they feel like it. They also grow lots of things onsite, with hydroponic systems, pickling jars. and drying racks making great use of each piece of the carefully sourced ingredients. And the dishes do a great job of highlighting all of those details with things like rotating augachiles, hearth bread with mole blanco and miso butter, and wagyu with wild mushroom and mole negro.